FLASHBACK: Once upon a fashion
Posted by admin on February 12, 2009 · Leave a Comment
While Pakistan passed a very inert, static, quiescent period (throughout the 1950s and early 70s) where fashion is all about, it was under 70 that Pakistan finally got its first non-fashion boutique set by Tanveer Jamshed, called Teejays. Here, take pictures, look at fashion eras, people and fashion trends over the past six decades. 1940s: During this era as the newly formed Pakistan saw a glimmer of hope in the form of Gora culture - hats, ties, belts, etc. “Pakistani / Muslim men and women were inspired by Göras instead Quaid-i-Azam Mohammed Ali Jinnah or his sister Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah. Mr. Jinnah lifestyle similar to an upper-class English gentleman. The clothes made him one of the best-dressed men in the world, rivaled in united India may just Motilal Nehru, father of Jawaharlal. Among the women were net a big favorite, and Frontiers has been used and is usually appliquéd on the dresses, “highlights the Lahore-based designer Beegee. Because of the Western influence, the use of traditional garments such as angarkhas, Chogha and jamas diminished considerably. But the other part, the ceremonial SAFA pagri, Topi and sherwani was as wide as ever among men. Yet the women took the wardrobe change with composure and continued with peshwaz, Kurt, ghararas and chunris, sometimes using imported fabrics but mostly with traditional hand-woven ones. After the confession to the khadi of Mahatma Gandhi, it soon became an angry and gave a much needed boost to the local power loom industry. 1950: The fabric of the decade was polyester, acrylic, spandex and lycra, and women’s dresses were ruffled and resolve like kaftans and stylized cuts Bob was much in demand. The men wore bell-bottom trousers, a jacket over a solid color shirt. Platform shoes were big on the dance floor and pattern shirt was Swirly and bewildering. The colors were strong and conflicting, making a statement that the 50s was the era of Saturday Night Fever. Thus, fashion trends within high society (read royalties) were strongly influenced by the Brits - so much so that western clothes became a status symbol. The earlier 50th century also saw the publication of Pakistan’s first female (fashion / lifestyle) Magazine, SHE. “I wanted to project women in Pakistan, says Zuhr Karim, founder-editor of the monthly women’s magazine. When he was asked about his motivation and inspiration,” she explained, “I had lived abroad for most of my life. But when I came back to Pakistan, I saw that it was not the same as they were abroad. Women did not get what I did back there. “She is still a powerful name in fashion glossies that comes out every month from Karachi. 1960: 60’s, probably the most daring, was a shock-filled ten years for both men and women who revolutionized the fashion world as we know it. It looked radically and lifestyle changes that reflected the mercurial passions of the time. This decade was full of defiance and celebration, marked with an exemption from restrictions. New types of materials such as coated polyester fabric was also popular then. I call it the “Jazz Age” as women’s dresses were more layered and outrageous, was let down their hair loose after permed or curled, while the glamorous parties beehive embellished. Hemlin rose and neck lines became more wrinkles, giving women a girlish appeal - a look that shook the very foundation of womanhood. “Short shirts and chooridar pajamas was farmed extensively for all types of events. Brocade fabric choice was during this time, large jooras and curly hair was groovy. Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah adorned jali Kay duppatay during this era, “adds designer Beegees. The only female designers who started in this period is the very famous wife Kazmi (Kazmi Bunto mother-in-law). She started first with the creative RAG dolls and eventually moved to make skirts, blouses, Kurt and kaftans, which are then exported to Australia, USA and London. She then started to create traditional bridal outfits in 1963 and it has been her main forte until now. Tight Kurt and chooridars competed with mini skirt abroad, and at the same time darzis and retailers understand the importance of an opportunity to prepare cheaper and ready to wear lines. In contrast, Men’s fashion does not change much during this decade. If anything, trousers tapered down tightly around the ankles. Fedora was an important way of explanation brave man, With the arrival of gangsters as Al Capone and James Bond 007 movies are the movies, pin-striped suits came into fashion. 1970: “The ’70s were Gypsies era. All loved and followed what Zeenat Aman and Parveen Babi was dressed in Indian movies, “remembers Beegee. One of the most revisited and retro periods in local ways saw the beginning of” anything goes “culture, with the result that the fashion became another form of personal expression . bold colors with flower prints were adapted into kameez and Kurt along with bell-bottoms, synthetic fabrics became popular and the disco culture had great influence on fashion. The clothes themselves were as flashy as the shiny disco ball that swirls around the dance at discos. Over time, began a network of ladies’ tailors to develop retail and history was made with the beam, followed by stores. Towards the end of the decade, went through the country’s political scene a great shuffle and saw the arrival of a “depression” sort of fashion for women was as conservative as possible. Dresses and suits for men and women, respectively, were usually broad shouldered with wide lapel, along with jackets bearing the double-breasted look for men. The era also saw the flapper look at its icon, and was joined women dressed in Flappy shalwars, floral embroidery and decorations with lots of shiny gold jewelery was a common sight. Mix and match also came into vogue since that time. Also, with the seventies came teenage rebellion. Girls’ dresses fluffed out in Maxis and long skirts. Her hair was the snitch and waiting and white tennis shoes or saddle shoes worn-out and considered hip. The more rebellious women wore tight-fitting, calf-length shorts or capris with body hugging blouses. 1980: Fashion began to flourish at a slow pace and experienced some of the most practical cuts and big flowers and abstract prints were the rage. Featured designers Sehyr Saigol and Mahe Khan launched a combined effort in early 1980 which then saw the latter branch out and launch his eponymous label. When he was asked about fashion scene and the trends prevailing at the time, Mahe said, “I began at a time when the there was no formal sense of fashion. Pakistani women were still emerging from the standard of saris in Karachi and Lahore in shalwar kameez, but I must reiterate that Pakistani women were really smart and sophisticated in the last decades of the 60s and 70s. “It was only in the early eighties, when I first opened the shop Mahe, that my focus was on trendy woman who was now traveling a lot and kept the two wardrobes. So I created a mixture of both, and launched my first collection of Capri pants and short length kameez, based on structured western lines. I would never know until years later that I had started a trend and the burgeoning fashion industry in Pakistan. And yes, those very same capris are still there even today, and much more … ” 1985, Florence Rizvi (at Café Flo “Fame, Madam Noor Jehan’s daughter-in-law and Sonia Jehan’s mother) stepped into the fashion world with the shalwar kameez in western styles. She came to the restaurant business much later in 1988, after the closure of the fashion world. In 1980s was both Bunto Kazmi and Faiza Sami well into their path with Bridals in Karachi. Bunto Remembers “I started from motocross and semi-motocross, but my strong suit has always been Bridals. I still have not achieved what I want, but I will one day. “The period between 1987-1988 also saw Iman Ahmed (former Imran Ahmed of Body Focus) is emerging as a designer.” When I started there were very few people and shops. But Shamael was there before me. Initially I started with very casual clothing, solving simple-fit trousers, long shirts and trousers. “In 1987 occurred Beegees in Lahore fashion scene with its semi-motocross, motocross and casual shoes. For more than a decade, she designed the clothes for Lollywood actresses and even Bollywood. Then fashion duo Sana Safinaz arrived on the scene 1989th They catered to a market with a variety of dresses that were more traditional, easier and more accurate distribution of the two. They developed and within two years began with bridal wear. The same year, Rizwan Beyg also launched. “When I started in 1989, Faiza (Same) and Bunto (Kazmi) did Bridals, while Shamael (Ansari) and Mahe (Khan) was high fashion. I began to couture at the time, “he says. Another prominent designer who took the courage during this time was Nilofer Shahid in Lahore. 1990: During the last decade of the millennium was one of extremes - mostly a mix of many different styles. the style of decades gone became fashionable again, but the biggest news of the decade was the ascendance of the next generation of designers in the usual way. But the decade also saw the revival of ethnicity. On the one hand, working-class women popular corporate look, an ethno-cultural revival that people go back to the traditional cuts and write. “The fashion trends at the time was all about clean lines and designer finally worked with shalwar kameez skyline. Mid and late 90s fashion went through exactly what happened abroad. If the 80s was about pop culture and disco Deewana, saw 90 century, clean lines, flowy fabrics and less embellishment, “says Andleeb Rana. The women were ethnic couture, traditional handicrafts and fabrics used in the majority. PLATFORM SHOE made a comeback and appeared in many forms - from sandals to tennis shoes. The color scheme of 90 — century, dramatic or pastel, but the classic color of bygone era, black, used for dramatic effects in fashion. In the late nineties, fresh and spotless new designer from Islamabad occurred. sobie Nazir Says, ‘I started in 1997, inspired by my mother who was deep into fashion and all that comes with it. I started with prêt and then moved to the couture. “At this time, Mary Butt also came to the scene with her brand name is Maria B.” I realized people have less awareness of trends and before the media explosion of 2000 was that everyone is doing and wearing a long kameezes mostly with regular shalwars. My basic inspiration international trends and colors and yes, the fabric has always been a great inspiration for me, “she says. This “androgynous era” consisted of tight Levis, Khakis, white or black, crisp shirts, loafers or converse shoes with leather jackets. His hair was slicked back with wing tips on the sides or curling in the middle. A very sophisticated Herrmode change came with the arrival of Amir Adnan stores in 1990 across the country. Adnan worked at the Eastern image of the local men, “Internationally it was bright and bold colors of men, who are not here, so I worked with a man feel more modern,” says the designer. Other designers who launched himself into this time and did a difference is HSY, Deepak Perwani, Taze Hasan, Ammar Belal and Nickie & Nina. 2000s: At the turn of the century, fashion evolved as an aspiring and sporting industries, more sharp, up-market and competition. This era can be called ‘decorated’ period of fashion. Men’s and women’s clothes reflected the influence of western media and increasingly in vogue around the world. outfits were more ornate and showed a much clearer silhouette. People had everything from wind pants (made of parachute) to baby doll dresses, attitude dude shirts from back-pack purses, capris for a dhoti shalwars, was short shirts that ends halfway above the knee to mix and match embellished gypsy skirts. Accessories are all shiny and bright with fine and trendy shoes available in all colors. The new millennium witnessed the birth of several ways of graduates from Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD) in Lahore as Kami Rokni and Mahe Karda Ali of Karma. “When we started in women’s clothes, trousers, had just arrived and the shirts were long. As students, we looked at Sana Safinaz and Shamael, “says Kami. Although this year saw Nadya Mistry outlet at a local shopping mall, a new degree which had been working since the last three years from home. In 2001, Nomi Ansari, also a graduate of PSFD launched with a colorful collection, “I was not limited and I’m not limited. I wanted to increase Pakistan’s silhouette, experimented with shalwars, shorts and worked in various lengths kameez,” says he. Autumn 2003 saw another inspiring and individualistic designer named Munib Nawaz enter local fashion, “I made my own trends, my basic inspiration is music, ranging from alternative to rock.” In 2006, budding fashion Mahe Karim out with ready-to -wear dresses for women, is going to carve a niche in the market for her designer label in a very short time. How has fashion evolved throughout the ages in Pakistan? Rizwan-ul-Haq (photographer): We had no fashion, we have no culture. We are just sailing in two ships. Tapu: (photographer): Even though we are 60 years old, Pakistan need to go far. Ready-needed retail and made a part of the high-end fashion. Tariq Amin (Stylist): It has not changed much. Initially, many people jumped on the train, but that’s all old now. Khawar Riaz (Stylist): I have no idea about fashion. You can judge it from the way I dress up. Arif Mehmood (photographer): I started photographing in 1989 and at the same time photography has evolved big time, it’s all very cyberspace, much sci-fi now. The designers, I have seen Rizwan Beyg and Sonya Battle increasingly as a designer. Vaneeza Ahmed (Model): Fashion was more advanced and Western in the 60s than it is now. Making the shalwar kameez costumes for men was a major disaster. This will open the fashion schools in the 90s is the point when we started over again, but then again we will need much time to reach the prime minister level. Andleeb Rana (Editor, Xpoze): Unfortunately I do not think fashion in Pakistan have developed at all. Yes, we have a large industry with many more designers, photographers, channels, models and magazines. But earlier, there was of fewer people working much harder …. Now it’s more people working and churning out a lot of mediocre work.
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